The photo above is from the infamous "Pearl Harbor" film from 2001. I did not see this film in theatres. I saw it on HBO a few years ago and I have to say that the costume department got a lot of the vintage clothing right but they also got a lot wrong. I admit that I tend to obsess over three things: vintage, historical facts, and grammar. (I am a linguist and copy editor by profession).
So, with that said, the costumes in "Pearl Harbor" captured pre-war fashion well. But as I watched a bikini-clad Evelyn (Kate Beckinsale) cavort with Danny (Josh Hartnett) on the Oahu shores, my interest in the story became overshadowed by the obvious, fashion oversights. The bikini was created by French designer Louis Reard in 1946. He named his design the "bikini" after the famed Bikini Atoll in the Pacific Ocean. Now, my mother-in-law, informed me that there were two piece playsuits in the pre-war era but bikinis were not worn really until the late 40s and into the 50s.UPDATE: I need to correct the information in the above paragraph regarding the historical accuracy of the "bikini." Yes, the "bikini" was invented in 1946 but it was a newer style that was very revealing and quite controversial. Unlike the two-piece bathing suits with shorts-like bottoms that covered the navel and posterior completely, the French design featured higher cut legs and a skimpier top. With that said, I have done some in-depth research this past weekend and found that not only were cotton two-piece playsuits in existence, two-piece bathing suits were/are period-correct! There are two-piece bathing suits AND bikinis. Unfortunately, I did not make an accurate distinction between the two. A bikini equals skimpy and two-piece suit equals modesty. Yet, over the years, bikini has come to mean all two-pieces suits! It is like every medical bandage being called a Band-Aid when Band-Aid is a distinct brand. Thus, when Evelyn was seen wearing a modest, 40s-era two-piece, the costumers got it right. I also want to credit Kim Bombshell for her valuable insight on this information as well (see the comments section)!
Another mistake the movie made was how the Navy nurses were not in uniform after war was declared. In the scene where the nurses and servicemen are seen attending the funeral of those lost in the Pearl Harbor attack, the women are wearing chic, civilian clothing while the men are in their uniforms. Moreover, when Evelyn is sitting at the desk in the communications/radio office during the Doolite Raids, she is again wearing civilian clothing and her hair is down!
Also, in the scene where Evelyn meets Rafe (Ben Affleck) for the first time, Evelyn is wearing her nurse's uniform and her hair is down. Military regulations state, even to this day, that hair must be off the collar. I was in the Army ROTC program for two years when I was in college and it was mandatory for me to have my hair off my collar.
As for the many historical inaccuracies of the film, in the scene where Rafe takes Evelyn to the harbor, the Queen Mary is docked in New York Harbor. Rafe says something about the ship's passengers having a luxurious time. In August 1939, The Queen Mary left Southampton, Britain with passengers trying flee to the United Stated in an effort to escape the impending war in Europe. This was the ship's last peacetime voyage. When the ship arrived in New York, war had been declared between Britain and Germany. In addition, even before the declaration of war, the portholes had been painted over to help lessen the threat of attack from German torpedos launched from U-boats. Six months later, the ship was commissioned by the British government to be used as a troop ship.
In an earlier scene of Pearl Harbor, the Army Air Force base on Long Island, New York was misspelled "Mitchell Field." It was actually "Mitchel Field."
Whenever a 1940s 0r 1950s period movie like, "A League of Their Own," "The Notebook," "Far From Heaven," or even a 1930s homage like Peter Jackson's 2005 version of "King Kong," I find myself paying attention to the vintage fashion way more than the story itself. In my humble opinion, I think "A League of Their Own" captured the 40s look perfectly. Everything Madonna and Geena Davis were wearing was just amazing. Their hair was also perfect! Didn't you girls just want to die when Dottie (Geena) was wearing that yellow rayon blouse after the end of the women's world series final game (when she says goodbye to Kit (Lori Petty) as they both get on their buses)?
As for "King Kong," I wanted to just scream when I saw Naomi Watt's eyebrows! They were unshaped and modern! Her whole makeup look was wrong too! The makeup department really dropped the ball on that one! 1930s brows were thin and high arched and lips were blue-red!
Now, the *best* depiction of vintage fashion is of course, vintage movies! I often watch the Turner Classic Movies channel on the weekends for clothing and hair inspiration. I recently watched Betty Grable in the 1950 classic, "My Blue Heaven:"
Betty looks so pretty here! I was also able to copy her hairstyle the other day. It was easy to do. It just requires pin curls and a middle part.
The fashion in old movies is always 'to die for.' I would do anything to be able to get my hands on those dresses, hats, and shoes! But, since I cannot go back in time, I will continue to study vintage and period movies for help when it comes to true vintage style. I know that some modern movies are going to get it wrong and yet, I will use my knowledge to properly amend my look.
So, are you a vintage nerd? Let me know what you think?
One of my all-time, favorite, "comfort food" movies is "Swing Shift" (1984) with Goldie Hawn, Christine Lahti, Kurt Russell, Fred Ward, and Ed Harris. Holly Hunter is in this too before she hit the big time. She plays one of Kay's (Goldie) friends/co-workers. I love the clothing, especially the ladies' uniforms at the war plant. I also love Kay's home decor. So cute!
