Hair Flower Tutorial!

For the longest time, I have wanted to do a hair flower tutorial. And after much procrastination, here it is!

Here are the supplies you will need:
hair flower
metal (or jeweler's) pliers
glue gun
glue sticks
hair barrette or hair alligator clip
1/4 inch wide grosgrain ribbon
scissors
hot pad (pot holder)

To start, select your hair flower(s) from your local craft store. The flowers are usually made of silk, a silk blend, or a poly blend. Moreover, the flower itself is typically on a single or multi-tiered plastic-coated metal stem.  You can find these flowers (or picks) in the flower section.

Before you begin, plug in your glue gun and place it on a hot pad (or pot holder) to protect your work space from the heat. Pre-heat glue gun for at least 10 minutes.

Now, using your pliers, cut off the coated-metal stem(s) at the base of the flower:

Make sure the stem is removed cleanly to ensure a flat surface necessary for gluing on the barrette (or alligator clip).

 Now, cut two equal sections of ribbon slightly shorter than the actual length of clip/barrette.

Using the glue gun, apply a small line of glue to the ribbon and adhere ribbon to underneath of the top part of clip:

Allow glue to cool for 5 minutes.

On the top of the clip, glue on the second strip of ribbon:

 Allow glue to cool for another 5 minutes.

Now, here comes the fun part, ie attaching the flower itself! Add a pea-sized amount of glue to the middle of ribbon and attach flower:

Allow glue to cool/set for at least 10 minutes before handling. Turn off glue gun and let it cool down completely before storing away. When your clip is no longer warm (whatsoever) to the touch), it is ready to wear! Let the compliments roll in!!!

Valentine's Date Night Look! (Updo Inspired by BerlinHairBaby's Youtube Tutorial)

(image from artfire.com)

Yesterday was Valentine's Day and even though I did not want anything, the husband (ie Big Daddy), took me out to dinner at Ruth's Chris. It was packed!  The food was too good and we ate too much but it was worth it! (I love their seafood and Big Daddy loves the steak!)

In preparation of our date, I wanted to do a different look this time. I usually do victory rolls or maybe a "hair down" look (now that it is growing out nicely) but last night I decided to do an updo I saw in a tutorial by BerlinHairBaby on Youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvjTkdXhsPY&feature=relmfu

I have watched several of her video tutorials and they are awesome! I love her thorough and in-depth instructions and she is a doll!!

To match my look, I wore a light aqua satin brocade bolero jacket my auntie bought in the UK for me, a black Stop Staring wiggle dress,  50s vintage black velvet stilettos, and a 50s-era Lisner parure set. The set is made with silvertone metal, blue rhinestones, and a aqua-colored lucite or plastic.

Here is the overall look:

Here is the front up-close:

Here is the back:

Here is a detail view of the necklace:

Here is my eye look for the evening:

Another view:

I am wearing Ardell brand lashes in "105."

I wish the "head to toe" picture came out but for some reason, my camera phone was making the images too dark! I looked like I was in dimly lit cave instead of my sitting room!

Nevertheless, here is the same style dress I wore:

(image courtesy of RedDressshoppe.com)

This is the third time I have done this Betty Draper-inspired updo and each time, it becomes easier and easier to create! I am looking forward to trying more styles!

So, how was your Valentine's?

Basic Nude Eye Look for Daytime

In honor of the fast-approaching Viva Las Vegas 14, I would like to present a nude eye tutorial. The first three eye tutorials were bright, intensely-hued, glittery looks appropriate for evening. This one, however, is a simple look that would be great for day.  In the 40s and 50s, day makeup was basic. The eyes were left understated and the focus was on defined brows, black glossy lashes, rougey cheeks, and a strong red lip. However, in the evening, ladies often wore shades of blue, green, gray, or lavender on eyes.

Moreover, if you want to keep this look 'low-key' but want to 'kick it up a notch,' you can add a black cat wing eyeliner on the top lashline.

Here is me before makeup this morning. Eugh! I need to get some makeup on my face quickly!

To start, I applied Nars Pro-Prime Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base on my entire eyelid to brow bone and on my lower lid, I applied my own blend of MAC Paint Pots in Soft Ochre and Painterly:

 Then, I applied MAC shadow in Orb (a pale matte vanilla custard) using a MAC 213 brush. On my crease, I applied MAC's Omega shadow (a soft, matte cork brown) using a MAC 230 brush. I then applied MAC Vanilla shadow (a satiny pale vanilla ice cream shade with hint of shimmer) on my brow bone using a 217 brush. To finish, I curled my lashes with my She Uemura curler and coated lashes with MAC Opulash in Bad, Bad, Black.

Orb is the second shadow in the top row. Omega is the last shadow in the second row and Vanilla is the first shadow in the first row.

From left to right: MAC 213, MAC 230, and MAC 217.

Here is an upclose view. Sorry for the odd 'tawniness' under my eyes. My camera phone was casting a shadow.

My next and final tutorial will feature a silver and silver glitter look. Tomorrow will mark exactly three weeks until Viva! Hope to see you all soon!

Blue and Charcoal Eye Look- "Enchantment Under the Sea"

Because VLV 14 is fast-approaching, I am going to post a series of evening/party makeup tutorials. Yesterday,  I featured a gold-toned, glitter look and today I did a bright blue and charcoal look.

During VLV, I plan to wear my 1950s emerald green, circle party dress. My dress' color is a blue-toned green therefore I created a cool-toned eyeshadow look to match.

Here are the products and MAC brushes I used:

Here is a breakdown of products:
-Nars Pro-Prime Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base
-MAC Paint Pot in Rollickin'
-MAC Pro Eyeshadow in Electric Eel
-MAC Eyeshadow in Print
-MAC Eyeshadow in a blend of Vanilla and Crystal Avalanche
-MAC Liquidlast Liner in Point Black
-Urban Decay 24/7 Pencil in Electric
-MAC Opulash Mascara in Bad, Bad, Black

Here is an upclose view of Rollickin (a sea-foam, blue-green pearl)':

I started this look by applying Nars eyeshadow primer from upper lash line to brow bone. Then, I applied MAC's Paint Pot in "Rollickin" to my lower lids using MAC's brush in 242. I then applied MAC's Electric Eel shadow to the lower lids using a MAC 213 brush. On my crease, I put on MAC's shadow in Print using a MAC 230 brush.

On my browbone, I applied a blend of MAC Vanilla and Crystal Avalanche shadows with a MAC 217 brush.  I then put on MAC Liquidlast liner to my upper lash line and applied Urban Decay 24/7 pencil in Electric on my lower lash line. To complete the look, I applied MAC Opulash Mascara on both sets of lashes.

On my lips, I am wearing Make Up For Ever's "Rouge Artist Intense" Lipstick in Satin #45 (a cool-toned cherry red) and MAC Lip Pencil in Cherry.

The next eyeshadow look I plan to do is a pink/purple-toned look. I cannot wait!

Glittery Eye Look for VLV!

While doing laundry  and tidying the house (notice the basket of dirty clothes in the background? lol) on this chilly Saturday afternoon, I decided to take some time out and create a glittery eye look (good for VLV or any night out). Since VLV 14 is less than a month away, I have begun planning my clothing list and organizing my makeup kit.

Since the evening attire at Viva is centered around party dresses, glitzy jewelry/accessories, and fancy hair, your makeup should reflect your party look.

Today's look has cat wing liner, soft, beige-gold glitter, smoky shadow, and pale gold eyeliner.  Here are the products used:

 
To start, I applied Nars Pro-Prime Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base on my entire eye lid (from upper lashline to brow bone). Then using the pale blue palette knife, I blended MAC Paint Pot in Rubenesque and Ben Nye Fireworks cream shadow in F1. I brushed the mix on my lower lids using a MAC 242 brush.

Using a MAC 213 brush, I put on Satin Sheets eyeshadow from Too Faced Cosmetics' "Naked Eye" kit on my lower lids. On my crease, I applied "Like a Virgin" (seen above) and my browbone, I put on "In the Buff."

Using MAC's Liquidlast Liner in Point Black, I did a cat wing liner with MAC's 208 brush. With Urban Decay's "Heavy Metal" Glitter Eye Liner in "Midnight Cowboy" on my lower lids. Since the glitter is suspended in a clear gel, it tends to dry a bit slow so I used my hairdryer on 'low' to set it properly.

On my lower lash line, I applied Make Up For Ever's Aqua Eyes Liner in 9L. To set the liner, I applied the "Satin Sheets" eyeshadow using a MAC 214 brush.

To finish, I applied MAC's Opulash Mascara in "Bad, Bad, Black."

Here is an upclose view:

And another:

I really love this glitter because it stays on and does not flake at all! It will stay on all night, even through hours of dancing! MAC's Liquidlast is also a wonderful product! The liner will not smudge, flake, or cause 'raccoon eyes!' To remove both, cold cream or an oil-based eye makeup remover works wonders!

I will be doing a few more eye looks before VLV starts. I plan to wear 1950s, emerald green party dress and I think a blue-green shadow look would be fun!

So, when it comes to nights out, what makeup looks do you like?

How to Make Atomic Housewares Tutorial!

This white vase sits on my mantle. I decorated it myself using paint pens I bought from AC Moore! The design was inspired from my Salem North Star cup and saucer set like this one:

How did I do it? I used DecoColor paint markers. The colors I used were black, gold, and teal. Each marker retails between $2.99 and $3.10 USD. I also bought the white vase at AC Moore for $4.99. Before I decorated the vase, I practiced making starburst-like designs on paper with a pencil. When I was ready to begin, I needed to "activate" the marker.

Simply shake the marker back and forth. Remove the lid and gently press down on the marker tip itself using scratch paper, and let the paint flow towards the tip. When the paint has completely saturated the marker head, draw a faint line to ensure paint will not streak. Now you are ready to create!

Should you make a mistake or you do not like your design, use turpentine and a soft cloth to remove the marker. Once applied, the marker will not come off! It also dries quickly! I do not recommend using DecoColor for items that are intended to serve food or drink. The paint will fade and chip with repeated washing and I am sure the chemicals are not food safe. It is best to use DecoColors on decorative-only items!

DecoColor comes in many colors, finishes (creams, metallics, pearls, and glitters), and also comes in different size marker tips like extra fine, fine, broad, and bullet. I normally use fine and broad.

Here is a simple, blue glass vase I decorated using a gold marker:

So, if you want to give your vintage house a retro touch, you can do it yourself. Sure, finding atomic beauties on Etsy and at antique malls are what we prefer in most cases, but now we can also make our own Eames creations!

Using Dry Shampoo on Vintage Hairstyles

Here I am wearing my hair in 40s rolls. It was the end of the workday and yet, my hair still held up well.

In the 11 years I have dabbling in the world of vintage hair, I have learned that bobby pins, a rat tail comb, hot rollers or curling iron, and tons of hairspray are vital to do most looks.

However, I have recently discovered dry shampoo sprays. So far, I have tried two different brands, Ojon and Tigi. The Ojon spray is available in two sizes, 4.5 ounces ($24.00 USD) and 2 ounces ($10.00 USD). You can find this product at most Sephora locations and it is also on their website.


The Tigi "Rockaholic Dirty Secret" Dry Shampoo comes in 6.3 ounces and retails for $18.95 USD. Tigi can be found at most salons and in stores like Ulta and Trade Secret.


Both products are sprays that emit a fine powder like mist that works to absorb hair and scalp oils, gives hair volume, and refreshes hair. Dry Shampoo is also great for saving your hair until the next day.

Here is how I use it:

On the day I wash my hair, I style my vintage hair as usual.

Then, after the day is done and I getting ready for bed, I take out all bobby pins and gently comb out any hair spray or hair products that were used to keep my style in place.

I re-roll hair in curls using rags or curlers. I then wrap my head with a scarf and go to sleep.

When I wake in the morning, I take the scarf off my head and then put on a plastic shower cap and take a shower.

After taking shower, I remove shower cap and put on my skincare and then makeup.

After makeup is done, I take out the rags or curlers and gently comb using a wide tooth comb. I then take my Ojon spray and give the can a good shake for about a minute. Then I apply the dry shampoo onto my roots. Now, this is important: after applying the spray, I gently weave my fingers onto the roots and scalp and shake hair back and forth until the powder dries. The spray will feel slight cool and damp but that is okay. This is not ruin my style.

I occasionally shake the can re-activate the shampoo as I work in sections of my hair.

Now that the dry shampoo has been applied, I gently comb my hair using a paddle brush to evenly distribute powder and to smooth out any sections that look too powdery.

Then, I simply restyle my rolls, secure with bobby pins, apply a little hairspray (Elnet is amazing), and I am out the door!

You can also use dry shampoo as a volumizer and 'hair gripper' when doing rolls (even on days you wash and blow dry)! When I was at my salon recently, I overheard one of the stylists telling her client that dry shampoo is good for giving hair more "oomph" and "grip." I took note of this tidbit and when I applied the Ojon spray onto the sections I was to roll, I noticed that my rolls were not only bigger in volume, but also how the bobby pins really stayed in place! I was really impressed!

Whether you prefer Ojon, Tigi, or other brands, you must give dry shampoo a try!

Guide for Caring for Your Vintage Clothing- UPDATED: 6-4-10

This is me in Vegas at the Venetian in March 2010. I am wearing a basic black Stop Staring dress and a 50s vintage black velvet swing coat. It was actually chilly there! I was quite surprised!
I wore my black velvet coat a lot during my 4 day trip and I even got some mystery stain on it, which was annoying to say the least. When I returned home, I promptly took it to the dry cleaners.

Like many of you ladies, I wear vintage daily and we all know vintage clothing requires special care. I have created a vintage clothing care guide based on my personal experiences. I hope you find this list/guide helpful and if you have any questions, suggestions, or thoughts, please feel free to share! I love comments!

Anyway, without further ado, here are some tips:

Rayon, velvet, polyester, silk, polished cotton, gabardine, wool, crepe, crepe de chine, satin, chiffon, cotton blends, and taffeta are all fabrics that require dry cleaning. Do not, under any circumstances, try to wash or care for items made from these materials. Water WILL ruin them!

Say it is the end of the day and you are removing your vintage clothes. If the item can be worn again, simply turn it inside out and hang on a good quality hanger so it can breathe. This helps remove any smells from the day. I will sometimes apply one light spray of Febreze on the inside of the underarm area to prevent any odor (do this when the item is inside out). Even though I wear an antiperspirant/deodorant, natural odor can still occur.

If you get a stain on your vintage dry clean item, you try to remove it right away. Do not put clothing away that has a stain because it can set in even worse. I have had much success with Dryel cleaning solution. This comes in the Dryel kit. However, given the sensitive nature of silks, I would not use this product. Instead, take silks to to the cleaners as soon as you can. I am not saying you have to rip the item off and race over to the cleaners in your underwear! Taking a soiled silk item to the cleaners the next day is usually sufficient.

As for Dryel, in order to get the stain off, try to blot most of it off using clean, soft cloth. Do not rub, blot! On a clean section of your cloth, apply a few drops of Dryel and gently blot soiled area until stain has lifted. If the stain is still present or has only lifted slightly, I recommend taking item to the cleaners.

For those vintage girls like myself who wear Stop Staring clothing, I have found that using the Dryel solution for spot stain treatment is not only effective, it does not cause any damage to the fabric.

When it comes to caring for basic cottons like sundresses for house dresses, hand wash using Dreft or Ivory Snow is best. Cold water is ideal. Wash per manufacturer's directions. Be sure to rinse completely and then lay item out on a clean towel and then hang to air dry once damp. I know it is tempting, but do not put washables in the washing machine. Vintage clothing is old and as a result, can have weaker areas. Modern machines can be quite rough so it is best to hand wash!

When caring for cardigans or sweaters, you can use Dryel or you can simply take it to the cleaners. I do not like putting cotton/water-safe cardigans and/or sweaters in the wash nor do I like hand-washing because they can become misshapened. Moreover, if your vintage cardigan is made with any embellishments like beading or sequins, take it to the cleaners. It is better to be safe than sorry.

Vintage lingerie made from silks, rayon, or poly blends should only be dry cleaned! However, girdles like those made my Rago can hand washed. I hand wash my Rago items all the time and I have not experienced any negative results thus far. Dreft and Woolite are amazing for shapewear.

When it comes to cleaning silk/nylon stockings, hand washing is best. Some companies make lingerie and stocking wash. I simply use a small amount of liquid mixed with cold water. When washing, I wear latex gloves to prevent my nails from snagging the delicate material. I also wear latex gloves when putting my stockings on. No matter how smooth my hands are, I usually snag an area of my stockings!

When caring for jackets and coats, dry cleaning is best. At the onset of the colder months, I usually take my outwear to the cleaners and if I find myself wearing a particular item a lot, I will have it cleaned again a month or two later. Should you get a stain, try to spot-clean using the appropriate method, or you can take it to the cleaners.

On the occasion I need to iron my vintage, I always consider the fabric! Now, most irons have a visual guide on them detailing which heat levels corresponds to specific fabric types. For example, most cottons and linens can be on the middle to higher settings (and some can even use the steam setting), while synthetics and blends usually require lighter/cooler settings.

Stretch polyester and gabardine (ie Stop Staring dresses) should be ironed on the lowest setting and to further safeguard the fabric, I usually place a clean, cloth napkin between the iron and the fabric itself. This will help prevent iron marks and even melting. The cloth napkin method is vital when ironing extremely sensitive fabrics like silks, velvet, and satin! If you do not shield the iron from these fabrics, they will be ruined!

Remember, synthetics do not like heat, so ALWAYS keep the iron on its low setting and depending on the fabric, use a cloth napkin! If not, your dress/blouse/skirt/pants will melt! I once made a huge iron mark on the front of a black Stop Staring dress! The heat was way too high and as soon as I pressed the iron directly down on the fabric, presto! A nice, ugly v-mark appeared on my dress!

Again, most vintage items should either be dry cleaned or hand-washed. Hang clothing after wearing, and be sure to treat stains promptly and properly. When it comes to ironing, do so carefully and read the guide on the iron.

When we give our vintage clothing the best care possible, it will last even longer and look great for many more years to come!

Guide to Buying Vintage Jewelry

This is me as a blonde (!) in November 2008. My husband and I were guests at professional banquet in Chevy Chase, Maryland. I am wearing one of my vintage hats and the earrings and necklace were from my husband's bubbe's collection. This matching set is from the late 40s or early 50s. It also included a hinge bracelet adorned with green and clear rhinestones. The pristine condition of this set is just amazing. All of the rhinestones are clear, none of the prongs are loose, no stones are missing, and the metal has not tarnished! My mother-in-law has given me several items from her mother's collection and I am impressed everything looks brand new. Most pieces even have their original boxes!

When it comes to my vintage style, I accent my look with vintage and reproduction jewelry. Sweet Romance, El Dorado Club, Classic Hardware, Lucky Loo Loo, and 1928 are reproduction companies making earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and rings. I know there is more! I have a pair of cherry earrings from Sweet Romance that I bought in 2006 from Baby Girl Boutique. They are made of green glass leaves, red rhinestones, and soft-toned gold metal. Even though these earrings are "new," people ask me if they are vintage. I prefer vintage over reproduction but if see something cute that 'looks' vintage, I will buy it.

However, when buying the 'real thing' at yard sales, estate sales, or vintage shops; here are some tips:

When it comes to vintage jewelry made with rhinestones, look for items in good condition. Make sure all stones are present and look for oxidized stones and/or ones that are chipped.

If there is tarnish and it is sterling, it more than likely can be cleaned with polish or even toothpaste (more on that later). If any metal is not sterling (or real gold) and you see flaking, tarnishing, or even rust, judge for yourself. We all know that vintage by its very nature is not perfect. An item that shows a little age can be charming but if something looks ravaged, then it will not be a good investment.

Speaking of sterling silver, if an item claims to be silver, look for the .925 stamp. This will more than likely be found inside of a ring or on the clasp of a chain and/or necklace.

Make sure earrings' screw backs are in good working order. If the screw back cannot tighten and untighten, then it will not properly stay on. If the earrings are clip, ensure the clip can grip the ear lobe. Also, if the clip is too tight, it can actually pinch the ear which can cause skin damage.

If an item (necklace, brooch, bracelet, or ring) has prong-set stones, make sure the prongs are tight and also check to see if any are broken. If you are crafty, you can buy a pair of prong tightening pliers from jeweler websites like Fire Mountain Gems. If you are nervous about doing this yourself, you can take your jewelry to any reputable jeweler that has a repair shop on its premises.

When buying brooches or earrings with in-set or glue-set stones, make sure all stones are present and/or not loose. Should a stone fall out, you can glue it back in. Jeweler's glue (available at Fire Mountain and most craft stores) and even basic Krazy Glue can be used to re-adhere stones into their 'sockets.' Simply apply a tiny dot of glue inside the socket and using a pair of tweezers, place the stone onto the glued area. Let dry overnight or per package directions! Be sure not to get any adhesive on your fingers! If this happens, soak fingers in an acetone-based nail polish remover. NEVER try to pry your fingers apart! You can rip the skin!!

When buying vintage chains, make sure the clasp closes and opens. Test the clasp to ensure it closes completely. Also, scan the chain for any weak or stretched links.

When buying vintage lockets, make sure the locket snaps tight after being opened.

When buying vintage plastic ala lucite or bakelite, check for any cracks or chips. I once bought a red 50s plastic bangle that snapped on me after a month due to a hairline crack.

If an item is made with genuine pearl, turquoise, or opal, DO NOT submerge these items in water and DO NOT EVER use jewelry and/or metal cleaner! You WILL damage the stones! Simply clean jewelry with a soft cloth. If the metal is tarnished (especially if it is made with sterling or gold), take it to a professional jeweler.

When cleaning vintage sterling, you can use silver polish. If you do not have any on hand or you feel nervous about using chemicals, you can use toothpaste! Simply get a soft, clean, dry washcloth and some q-tips (if needed). Squeeze out a small amount (a pea-size) onto the washcloth and rub onto the tarnished areas. The toothpaste will more than likely turn black. This is okay. When the sterling looks clean and silvery again, clean under warm water with an old toothbrush. Blot jewelry with a clean paper towel, lay flat, and allow it to dry on a clean towel.

When it comes to dressing vintage, not only is investing in a vintage (even repro) jewelry collection is a must for any retro gal, it is fun!

Here's to finding all things sparkly and bright!

The Vintage Girl’s Guide to Travel

Here I am, in Aruba in October 2007. My husband and I, along with our family and friends, took a seven day cruise to the Caribbean. I remember this was the trip I packed too much! I must have had enough outfits for a month! This was also the trip I forgot many things I needed.

So, when traveling, how does a vintage girl adequately pack her suitcase? In the past, not only did I pack too much, I traveled ‘ignorantly!’ This means I did not check the weather reports and I did not make a list of what I actually needed. In the past, whether I vacationed somewhere warm or cold, I felt I had to pack everything. There have been times where I had to bring two suitcases while my poor husband brought one. As we all more than likely aware, most airlines are now charging for checked baggage. If you are not flying first class, bags can cost $25.00 and second bags are charged $35.00! (You do not want to know how much they charge for oversize items, like skis! Talk about steep!)

Here are some things you must consider:

The destination
The length of stay
The weather
Accessories
Toiletries and makeup

The Destination:

Where are you going? It is tropical? Are you going somewhere cold? When you are visiting warm destinations, choose clothing that is made of lighter fabrics like cotton or Dacron. Try to stay away from linen because it wrinkles easily. If you know you are going to be swimming, bring two bathing suits. Once wet, bathing suits often take a long time to dry and wearing a damp suit tends to feel uncomfortable. Bring a cover-up and a pair of flip flops (or fabric/ribbon espadrilles) for poolside/beach days. Evening attire in most tropical destinations tends to be more casual. Lighter forms of rayon or heavier cottons are good choices. Think pretty sundresses with boleros. If your hair is like mine, then it will frizz in high humidity! Bring hair scarves and snoods to conceal unruly hair. Also, hair flowers are lovely and totally appropriate! If you plan to do sightseeing, pack comfortable wedges or cute flats. For evening, a pair of peep-toe platform shoes in black is good. Black goes with a lot of things; therefore it cuts down on items.

In colder weather, especially snowy destinations, you will need to be cautious with bulk when it comes to packing. Sweaters take up more room. You may need to rotate clothing. Whenever I travel to Colorado for skiing, I make a clothing list and even an outfit list to help cut down clothing. You can wear things more than once, just mix it up! Bring insulated/waterproof gloves, a wool hat (I usually pin on a vintage brooch to jazz it up), a scarf, sunglasses, and waterproof boots with insulation AND traction. If you are vacationing somewhere with lots of snow, chances are that there will be snow pack and ice in public areas. If you have boots without adequate traction, you will fall. In addition, if you boots are not insulated, your feet will be cold. This is especially true when walking around.

If you ski like me, you will also need to bring base layers and turtlenecks. If you do not have a proper ski jacket, you will need to buy one. Look for a jacket that is insulated, has vents for cooling down, and is waterproof! When trying jackets on, understand that you may need to go up a size because you will more than likely be wearing a sweater and a couple of layers underneath. You need to be able to move, girls! Also, you will need sunglasses or UVB goggles. I know the goggles look silly but trust me, I have tried to wear my vintage cat eye glasses on the slopes but they fog up and I cannot see! This is not good, especially when flying down a mountain on a pair of skis.

On the day you leave for your cold weather trip, bring your ski jacket/winter coat with you on board the plane. Not having your jacket in your suitcase will cut down on bulk and leave more room.

Moreover, regardless of destination, bring sunblock!

Length of Stay:

You need to consider how many days worth of clothing you will need when packing. Pack only for the days you will be gone and bring an extra pair of undergarments in case you get stranded.

The Weather:

Before traveling, check the weather. If they are calling for rain, put a small travel umbrella in your case. Also, if there is going to be a drop in temperature (especially during the evening), pack a cardigan or light jacket.

Accessories:

Try to keep the number of accessories limited. When you create your packing/outfit list, consider which jewelry you wish to match with certain items. You can also rotate pieces as well. The black resin black you wore with the pink sundress will go great with the black and white polka dot halter dress too. Moreover, the rhinestone stud earrings you wore with the black merino wool turtleneck also look fantastic with the cable cardigan and rolled jeans.

Toiletries and Makeup:

The toiletry bag is one of the most important items in a girl’s suitcase! When traveling, keep makeup and personal care items to a minimum. When visiting warm destinations, two must-have items are razors for shaving and sunblock for protecting skin from the sun. Be sure to include your deodorant, toothbrush, paste, and floss! Pack travel-size items of your skincare. If you do not have smaller size bottles, you can buy empty bottle kits for travel at most drug and grocery stores. If you are particular about your hair, you will need to include travel sizes of shampoo, conditioner, and styling products. Most hotels/resorts offer complimentary hair items but I prefer my own. Should you have your menstrual cycle during your trip, you need to supply your personal kit with feminine products. Do not make yourself vulnerable on vacation by needing to find a store! Moreover, if you are going to have your cycle while traveling (ie the plane), be sure to stock your handbag!

If you are like me and wear contacts and/or corrective lenses, you need to keep your glasses, sunglasses, and contacts with you (if you are not wearing them during travel). Here is what I do: before leaving the house, I put my contacts on and I bring my empty lens case and a small travel bottle of lens solution in my purse. Remember, when traveling via air, all liquids in your possession must be under 3 ounces! Most lens solution brands come in travel sizes. Again, keep glasses with you. Do not pack them on the off-hand chance you get stranded due to a cancelled flight or your luggage gets lost.

When it comes to your makeup, again, try to plan looks around your outfits. Do you really need all your shades of red lipstick? Do you need all those shadows? Pack makeup for creating basic looks for day and more dramatic evening look. I find that for me, a pink lipstick, a red one, and a brighter coral shade cover a nice variety of looks. I bring a few neutral shadows for day makeup and maybe a couple of greens and blues for evening styles. Pack mascara, eye primer, brow pencil, face primer, foundation, powder, one neutral blush, concealer, and makeup remover.

Lastly, give yourself ample time to prepare for travel. There is nothing worse than running around at the last minute! Not only are you guaranteed to forget something, you could be late for your flight! Make a packing list and check off items once they have been packed. This will ensure you have all your necessities and it will make your vacation so much more enjoyable.

Pearls! A Vintage Girl's Must Have!

Here is a pic of me in my kitchen. I am wearing my pearls with a simple black tee I got at Wal-Mart!

Pearls. Whether they are glass, man-made, cultured, or real, pearls are timeless and a must have for any vintage girl! Pearls make the most casual outfit look polished and chic. Adding a pearl necklace to simple white tee and a pair of high-wasted sailor pants gives your look an "instant upgrade!" Pearls come in many lengths. There is the 16 inch choker strand, the 18 inch princess length, the 32 inch opera length, and the 60 inch rope. Depending on the time of day and what clothing you are wearing, pearls are always appropriate!

The 16 to 18 length are good for simple house dresses and most daytime wear. This length invokes a sense of casual elegance. I often wear my 16 length pearls for the office and for running errands during the day.

The longer lengths are good for evening and even some office attire. It all depends what you wear with it. For example, I have a Majorica 60 inch rope strand that I recently got for my 35th birthday. I can double the strand and create a opera length look that goes wonderful with boatneck style dresses and tops and most cocktail wear. If I triple the strand, I have a 18-20 inch, three strand necklace that pairs well with evening attire and if I wear a simple black suit with a camisole underneath, I am ready for the office. Like most accessories, wearing pearls will depend on your clothing.

Another thing to consider when it comes to pearls is how much you are willing to spend and how often you will be wearing them. I think buying good quality, man-made pearls like Majorica or Carolee are a good choice. Majorica is not expensive like the famous cultured Mikimoto pearls, but it is not cheap either. For example, a 16-inch strand will often cost anywhere between $185.00 to $200.00. The price also depends on the millimeter or "mm" of the individual pearl size. In my opinion, the best pearl size is 8 mm. This is the classic size that is not too small nor too big. Anything over 12-14mm can look too bulky ala "Wilma Flintstone."

As for Mikimoto pearls, unless "money is not object" for you, a 7mm, 16-inch strand will cost about $2,300.00 USD! Take the price for a 32-inch strand and you will pay about $6,000.00 USD! The Mikimoto quality is legendary but their prices are infamously sky-high! I would love to have their pearls but I cannot justify spending that kind of money. So, what is a vintage gal to do?

There are a lot of good imitation, ie "man made" pearls out there. Carolee is a great brand that carries many styles of pearls and their stock can be found at most department stores. These pearls will cost about $55.00 to $200.00 USD. An 18-inch strand made with 8mm pearls will cost about $65.00 USD and a triple strand will cost about $195.00 USD. Carolee offers a lifetime guarantee as well.

The only pearls I do not recommend are the plastic ones or pearls that are painted glass. The plastic type looks cheap and the painted variety will eventually flake and peel.

When it comes to caring for your pearls (man made or not), here are some basic rules:

Do not wash your pearls in jewelry cleaner! EVER! Most soap-based cleansers will destroy pearls. If you need to clean your necklace, simply wipe with a soft cloth and when you are not wearing them, keep pearls safely stored in a jewelry pouch.

Do not wear your pearls when you are applying hairspray or spray perfume! These sprays WILL ruin the pearls' luster and finish! Moreover, it is best to wait 30 minutes after putting on perfume before wearing your pearls.

In conclusion, a vintage girl can never go wrong when it comes to wearing a classic, white pearl necklace! Wear them with elegance and be sure to properly care for them! You will be glamorous for many years to come!

Making Hair Flowers

This is a picture of me wearing a yellow rose hair flower (silk/fake flower) I made a couple of years ago. When I started buying retro clothing from online stores, I found several sites that sold hair flowers. I bought two for about $6.00 to $8.00 USD. When my package arrived and I opened up my goodies, I looked at my new flowers and realized they were nothing more than a flower attached to a silvertone barrette using a hot glue gun! I said, "Wow! I can do this!" I also thought "Dang it! Why didn't I think of this first?! I could be selling these!"

Anyway, those two cute flowers were the only ones I ever purchased and I must have at least 10 that I have made myself. These are easy to make and they are cheap too!

Here is what you are going to need:

A trip to the craft store

Fake floral picks

A Glue gun

Glue sticks

A package of plain barrettes

A wire cutter

Pot holder

An old towel or sheet

First step is going to the craft store. Michael's is wonderful and AC Moore is even better. I could go nuts in AC Moore. Believe me, I have been known to spend over $100.00 on crafts!

Try to select flowers that look clean and with all their petals intact. Also, buy flowers with leaves attached. You are going to need these in the fabrication of your barrette.

If you do not have a glue gun, buy one. In additon, if you do not have one, you more than likely do not have glue sticks. Get a pack.

The bridal section of most craft stores have multi-packs of plain barrettes. They usually come in a pack of 10 and there are usually different sizes. I find that the two inch barrettes are the best. Now, buying a pack is good because there may be a barrette or two that will not close correctly or you may mess up a flower and need to start over.

Buy your goodies.

When you are ready to start, this is what you do:

Get a an old towel or old sheet and cover your work space. Put a stick into the glue gun and turn on. Set aside and place on top of a pot holder.

Take your flower and turn it upside down. The flower is attached to the 'stem' made with a wire that has been coated with heavy plastic. Look at where the wire and flower connect. Using your wire cutters, cut off the wire stem. If there is a bulbous end that cups the flower, cut the wire just to the edge of this area. DO NOT CUT INTO THIS. THE FLOWER WILL FALL APART.

Using a pair of scissors or wire cutters, cut off a leaf. If you have work gloves (preferably clean), put them on now if you are nervous about using the glue gun. You should be okay but watch how much pressure you apply to the handle. Using too much can cause glue to quickly ooze out and burn your skin! This glue is hot! I have been burned many times by not being careful.

With the flower upside down, apply a small, thin line of glue and then press the leaf onto it. Let cool. Be careful because the heat of the glue can come through. By gluing on the leaf, you are creating more of a flat surface for the barrette to adhere to.

Take a barrette and test it. Open and close it a few times to make sure it's in good working order.

Once cool, squeeze a small, thin line of glue and gently press a barrette onto the glue line. Do not press too hard. Keep flower upside down and set aside. If you are not making other flowers, turn off glue gun and let cool completely before putting away.

When your barrette is cool, you are ready to wear it! Enjoy!

Must Have MAC Brushes

I have been using MAC makeup brushes for at least 12 years. The very first brush I purchased was a 150 powder brush. I bought it along with my beloved Studio Fix Foundation. I came to realize that I had no idea how to use brushes properly nor did I know how much I would come to love MAC brushes once I learned.

When I used the 150 brush to apply the Studio Fix, I hated the result. The powder looked uneven and blotchy. I initially blamed the quality of the foundation and ended up returning it after a few days of use. Years later, I found out that it is not in the makeup, rather, it is in the artist and her tools!

Tools really do make all the difference between good and bad makeup application. Using the wrong brush can ruin your look. Take it from me, I know!

Over the years, I have improved my makeup skills and overall cosmetic knowledge. Not only am I well versed in shadows, lipsticks, foundations, brow pencils eye liners, and mascaras, I have fully embraced my obsession with MAC brushes! This is coming from the girl who actually used the little sponge applicators in her shadow quad!

So, here is a list of must-have MAC brushes! After countless hours of experimentation, I have determined there are "cannot-live-without-them" brushes and "I-can-do-without-them" brushes. However, I am only going to focus on the essentials.

I have categorized the following in the order of Eye, Face, and Lip.

Eye Brushes:

213 - This is called a "small fluff brush" by MAC and it used for applying shadow to the lids. It has a round, slightly tapered shape and it feels soft. Its small shape makes it very controllable.

239 - This brush has white fibers and the overall shape is a bit round. The texture is firmer than the 213. It is used to blend shadow and it is wonderful for the crease.

217 - This is deemed a "blending brush" by MAC. It is made with light-colored fibers and has a firm yet soft fluffy feel to it. I use this for applying light, highlight colors to my brow bone. It is also great for blending shadows to make them look seamless and smooth.

222 or 224- These are tapered brushes with black fibers. They are good for blending but I think they are a must for applying highlight powder to the inner corners of the eyes and highlight shimmer on the top of the nose.

208 - This is a small brow brush with a strong angle. The fibers are light blond with some straw shades blended in. This brush is firm but also has a pliable feel to it. It is wonderful for filling in brows with colored brow wax and brow powder. It is also great for creating 50s cat eye liner using liquid liner.

252- This is a tawny-blond colored brush. It has a rounded square shape and feels firm yet gentle on the eyes. It is ideal for applying Paint Pots, cream to powder shadow, and MAC Paints and MAC Cream Color Bases.

Face Brushes:

109 - This is a small version of the kabuki brush. It has black fibers and a slightly flared, dome shape. This brush is great for applying MAC Studio Fix foundation, mineral foundation, and even blush.

116 - This is a small to medium sized brush with black fibers. The shape is flared and rounded on the ends. This is THE blush brush. Period. I have never used a better one than this. Its shape allows for precise application and the fact it is tapered just makes blush look incredible.

168 - This is an angled fluff brush made from white fibres. It is super soft! I use it to apply contour under my cheek bones. I make a fish face and use this brush with MAC shadow in Kid inside the hollows of the cheeks to create the illusion of better sculpted cheeks.

188 - This is a very cool duo tone brush. It is made with black and white fibers and it feels velvety soft. It creates an airbrush quality when using blush or highlighter. I use this with highlight powder on my forehead, tops of my cheeks, and center of my chin. If my blush looks too heavy, I spritz the 188 with MAC's Fix+ Spray and twirl the brush to gently diffuse the blush and help tone it down.

195 - This is a blondish toned, firm brush with tapered sides and a point. This brush is the ultimate concealer brush! It is firmer than the 194 and this allows for more precise application of cream concealer on blemishes.

150 - My first MAC purchase. This black fibred brush is the largest one I own. It is fluffy yet not too fluffy. This is the best brush to applying setting powder to finish makeup and it is great for applying bronzer and/or shimmer to collarbones.

Lip:

MAC had a 311 lip liner brush at one point but it was discontinued. It was a small liner brush that came to a point. I still have mine and it is good for applying MAC's Lipmix. I think Japonesque (available at Ulta) makes one similar to this. This is good brush for applying lipstick as a liner but if you prefer liner, then you may not need this brush.

Cleaning Brushes:

When it comes to brush cleansers, I tend not to waste my money. I use baby shampoo. For those brushes that need extra cleaning and/or have liquid liner on them, you can use an oil-based makeup remover like MAC's Cleanse Off Oil or Lancome's BiFacil. When using oil-based removers, first apply them, rinse, and then use the brush cleanser of your choice.

When washing brushes, use warm water. Do not use hot or cold. Pour cleanser into the palm of your hand and gently swirl the brushes. Do not smash or pull on the fibres! You can cause damage and lost fibres. Gently coax the shampoo through the brush in the direction of the fibers and rinse in warm water until the cleanser is gone and the fibres feel soap-free.

As you dry, use a hand towel to dry the handles but squeeze the water out of the brushes in the same direction the fibres go. Reshape the brush gently with your fingertips. Do not towel dry the brush fibers. Again, you can cause damage.

Lay out a clean, dry towel on your sink counter and lay each brush on the towel, allowing space between each one. Do not dry your brushes with the brush head sticking up, ie in a cup or container. This will cause water to collect in the brush where it connects to the handle and over time, the brush head could pop off because the metal and wood will have deteriorated. I learned about brush care and maintenance during the many years as an art student. I figure whether a brush is for makeup or for a canvas, both require the same tender loving care.

If you all have any other must-have ideas regarding brush essentials, let me know! I would love to hear from you!

How to Refill a Vintage compact

I actually have a copy of this 1940s advertisement on my fridge. I love it! I also like how we get to see how much makeup cost and how small the lipsticks were! Even though today's cosmetics are much bigger and the quality is great, the packaging is often too boring for my taste. Sure, I am a MAC Cosmetics fanatic, but their slick, black compacts and black plastic bullet tubes are ho-hum in my book.

I realize that not many people care about what their lipstick tube looks like but I do. I prefer the older styles of most things and makeup is of course one of them. I have been searching for vintage makeup tubes on eBay and Etsy. I bought two vintage Revlon tubes yesterday. I plan on refilling the tubes with two different shades of MAC lipstick; Lady Danger and Russian Red. I also found a great, I mean GREAT tutorial on Va-Voom Vintage's blog last week detailing how to properly clean the tube and refill it with modern lipstick. I am excited!

Not only am I interested in vintage tubes, but also vintage compacts as well. I could sit in front of my laptop all day and search Etsy for compacts! There are so many pretty designs. It is a shame no one makes packaging like they used to anymore. I have seen compacts in shapes ranging from fan shapes, squares, rounds, ovals to rectangles. They are often adorned with lace, gilded lines, florals, and birds. But, here is a question: say I get a compact off Etsy and I want to refill it will modern blot/face pressed powder. How do I do it?

Well, sadly, I have come to the realization that most vintage compacts cannot be refilled with modern powder pans. The contemporary ones are too big. Period. Also, if a compact is oval or fan-shaped, then there is NO way I can refill it, or can I?

I have found a couple of sites detailing how to refill a vintage compact with modern powder. At first I was majorly skeptical. But you know what? This method I am about to share with you actually works! I can say that this 'recipe' is amazing and so easy. I did this last night with an older gold-toned Guerlain meteorites compact I had stashed away in a drawer.

So, here is what you are going to need:

Rubbing alcohol

loose powder or pressed powder

vintage compact (preferably with a metal pan still inside)

cheesecloth or linen cut into a hand-held size

small bowl

butter knife

small condiment spoon

Before you even think about refilling your vintage compact, you need to clean it. If there is any old makeup present, it can harbor dust, bacteria, and potential irritants. Soak a cotton ball or cotton round with rubbing alcohol and clean compact out. Set aside to dry.

In a small, clean bowl, spoon in some loose powder or you can use a butter knife to scrape out your pressed powder from a modern compact.

Using a small spoon, slowly mix in a little rubbing alcohol with the powder until you form a creamy paste. Be sure to smooth out any lumps! Gently mix and scoop into vintage compact pan. Smooth out any irregularities and be sure not to overfill!

Take a cheesecloth or piece of linen and gently press over the compact. Remove. The cloth will create a nice surface look and help smooth powder.

Keep the compact open and allow to dry overnight. Before attempting to use your revamped, vintage compact, make sure the surface is dry by wiping a finger across it. When the compact is ready to use it should feel 'powdery' and smooth.

When carrying your compact in your purse, be careful not to let it bang around. The powder can shatter. If this happens, you have to start all over again and will a fresh batch of powder.